by Jennifer Croft; photography by Stamen Manolov

I like seeing cities wake up. There's something special about those early morning hours when shopkeepers are sweeping pavements, groggy dog owners are out for the first walk of the day, and the smells of breakfast start to waft through the air.

One morning in Zagreb, I decide to venture out to see how the city starts its day. I suddenly feel like Alice in Wonderland had she wandered out half asleep in jogging clothes. The streets already bustle with well-dressed pedestrians striding purposefully to their place of work or study. The bakery on the first floor of my building has been in business for several hours. I realise that you need to wake up really early, or perhaps not even go to bed, to see this city kick into gear. Some locals affirm: Zagreb is an early-bird city. The evening rush hour starts at 3 pm, as those who began work at 7 am start to go home. I ask a driver how people spend their evenings if they get up so early. He shrugs and replies: “I think they go to bed at nine.”

A few days later I meet an American who's lived in Zagreb for eight years. I mention that I live in Sofia, and her eyes widen. “I was there!” she says wistfully. “You're so lucky -you can buy your vegetables after work!”

After a few days, I see what she means. The main outdoor market is closed after noon each day. Most shops close by 8 pm, making the shopping arcade under the train station your best bet for late-night food shopping. This is much better than it sounds, however, with none of the seediness you might expect from such a location. Of course, Zagreb's station itself is hardly typical, nestled at the edge of one of the city's main park blocks, its regal façade harmonious with the city's other gems of Austro-Hungarian architecture. Not far from the station is one of the city's smartest hotels, the beautiful, Art Nouveau Regent Esplanade, where Josephine Baker, Orson Welles, and Ella Fitzgerald once rested their weary heads.

Zagreb is not at the top of most lists of must-visit European cities. Part of the blame goes to Croatia's extensive and gorgeous coastline for detracting attention from the inland capital. Granted, it may not offer the hedonistic pleasures of the blue Adriatic, and it's unlikely to sweep you off your feet like Rome, Barcelona or Paris. Think of it more like watching a Merchant Ivory film: maybe a little on the stodgy side, but classy, charming, and with a subtle, solid beauty.